No need to pack a picnic; Phi Phi is more dessert than deserted.
Seafood is the star attraction, with many places displaying the
day's catch as an effective way to, ahem, hook customers. But Thai
and Western options, from quick grab-and-go snacks to candlelit
meals, are also in pleasing abundance.
Dining Out in Phi Phi
Ton Sai is the centre of the Phi Phi diner's universe. Whether
indoors, outdoors, or places that blur the line between the two,
there are plenty of restaurants ready to fill your belly with sumptuous
selections.
In an attempt to unravel the helter-skelter conglomeration of businesses
that make Tonsai a village, we're dividing the area into three areas:
the mass of shops immediately surrounding the pier, the trail of
businesses that line the walkway heading east, and the places across
on Loh Dalam Beach - a five-minute walk north of Ton Sai across
the isthmus.
Central Tonsai
Near the pier you can find anything. The streets angle here and
there and lack any distinctive markings (like names), so locations
that aren't directly on the beach aren't always easy to find on
the first attempt. Take heart, the place isn't that big.
Main Street, which isn't really its name but should be, is home
to iconic Phi Phi locations like Mama's
Restaurant - a French restaurant with an experienced
friendly staff that delivers the goods in style and is an ideal
people-watching vantage point. Le Grand Bleu, another classy French
outlet right by the pier, on the same street you'll find Phi
Phi Bakery, an institution, coffee and cigars at McPluto
Burger, a packed house and warm pastries at Patcharee
Bakery and shaded waterfront dining at Tonsai Seafood
Restaurant.
Delve into the labyrinth for juicy steaks and a smorgasbord of
international options at H.C. Anderson's, all you
can eat sushi and sashimi at Hibachi. Cosmic is a pizza parlour with a burgeoning reputation that has another
branch next to the Bank of Ayuthaya (the yellow bank) and you'll
find a man-of-mystery vibe at nearby 007.
Get eclectic and intimate at Unni's Restaurant,
a tastefully fitted out eatery featuring an incredibly wide menu
that encompasses Mexican to Italian to Greek to Thai food. Next
door is Pum Thai restaurant where you can attend
cooking classes. This restaurant is also recommended by Britain's
The Guardian newspaper, BBC books and Lonely Planet.
Always popular is side-by-side combo of Hang Out Bar &
Restaurant and Madame Resto. For late
night refuelling or a good old English breakfast head to Little
Britain Cafe, in the Reggae Bar, for eggs, bacon, sausage,
Heinz Baked Beans, fried potatoes, mushrooms, black pudding and
other staples like burgers. Almost next door is Matt's Joint Grill
("All you can eat: Boys 295 baht, Girls 265 baht, Kids and
Rabbits 150 baht").
East Tonsai
A trek to the east, down the footpath that more or less follows
the sea, will turn up a dozen more eating options.
At the crest of a hill (more of a small incline, really) you'll
find Phi Phi Don Chukit Restaurant, which, being
elevated, has the one of the best views of Ton Sai Bay.
Further on - keep going, you're nearly at the end - are the twin
powerhouses of Hippies Bar & Restaurant (&
Convenience Store & who knows what else) and Carpe Diem.
Like many places, the catch of the day is iced and on display.
Loh Dalum
There are two spots worth mentioning on the Loh Dalam side of the
Greater Ton Sai Village-opolis.
Both are beachfront, though 'beach-on' is a more accurate description.
Ciao Bella is classy (in a good way) with its
Italian-based menu and cool music while Sunflower is
funky (in a funky way); both are refreshing examples of life imitating
imagined ideals.
Great quality Thai food - at prices so low they border on silly
- is in the non-fancy part of Ton Sai village. There's a market
with loads of fresh vegetables, eggs, and meat products, and a host
of small stalls that make the most of these ingredients.
The menus may not be in English, but that's part of the adventure.
Besides, this is Thailand - nowhere else will you find people so
willing to help you enjoy their culture. Indeed, a recent Lonely
Planet poll revealed that Thailand is perceived to be the most hospitable
country in the world.
The road parallel to the main track between the pier at Tonsai
and Loh Dalum is the place to hit cheap culinary gold. Here, you
will find many Thai restaurants serving up such staples as chicken
fried rice, phad thai, noodle dishes and various spicy curries.
(Read more about Thai Food) |
